The allure of the Dominican Republic (or, the “D.R.”) will draw you in from the moment you first step off the plane. Even Christopher Columbus couldn’t resist the island’s charms, choosing for his final resting place “the most beautiful land that human eyes have ever seen.” (Whether his remains are, in fact, still there is a subject of ongoing debate.)
In more recent history, however, vacationers have generally limited their experience to Punta Cana, seeing only a small fraction of the country during a visit. In an attempt to remedy this, the D.R. has been working to make other areas more accessible by beefing up infrastructure with projects that have improved airports and added new roads—such as the John Paul II highway, which now links the nation’s capital of Santo Domingo to the peninsula of Samaná.
After a two-hour drive along this new artery—during which I had my camera at the ready to capture the lush palm fields and various small towns we passed along the way—is a spectrum of accommodations suited to every budget and taste, from remote jungle lodges to bumping beachfront resorts. The community of Las Terrenas is the lively hub of it all, where bustling shops sell everything from tourist tchotchkes to local cigars, while, on the pristine beaches, there’s fresh seafood for sale, including oysters shucked to order.
Park Life
On my first day in Samaná, I skipped the beach and made a beeline for Los Haitisis National Park. The area—once a popular hangout of pirates, due to its countless coves, keys and mangrove swamps to hide among—is now a protected shelter that attracts 236 species of birds (and far more tourists) each year. The best way to visit is by boat, and several companies offer tours that invite you to explore the park’s hidden corners.
Luckily, I’d been told to wear a swimsuit layer that day, so I could leap out of the skiff at La Pescada, a small fishing area just beside a cave from which the river El Naranjo flows. Swimming deeper into that cavern against the current was a real workout, and I was rewarded with a bit of shallow water toward the back of the cave, where I caught my breath while gazing at the fish swimming about in the bathtub-clear water. Unfortunately, I’d neglected to bring along water shoes, and my lack of forethought left me with feet that were scratched-up on those deceptively sharp rocks—so be prepared, if you plan to follow in my footsteps!
Another highlight of the park is the number of cave paintings and sculptures left by the indigenous Tiano tribe several centuries ago. While the tribe has long been wiped out, these creations stand as a testament to that once-thriving society. Legend has it that one of the tribe’s members, a central figure in a tragic love story—identified by her long, flowing locks—can still be seen roaming the forests.
Go Chasing Waterfalls
Few things evoke a tropical paradise like a vision of water cascading down a verdant cliff face into a refreshing pool that’s just ripe for swimming: Such is the scene at El Limón, a 120-foot-high waterfall hidden in the mountain folds of Samaná’s inland jungles.
The mountains in this area reach as high as 2,100 feet, so I was grateful to make the trek on horseback (novices need not worry—these horses are trained for clueless tourists). My docile mount came with a local guide, who looked after me during the 30-minute climb, pointing out the cacao, avocado and aromatic coffee trees we passed before hitting the dense foliage-lined mountain path. After reaching the peak, I had to pick up my jaw from my lap: An ocean of soft, rolling greenery stretched out before me—a forest so thick, it resembled an emerald-hued cashmere throw tossed over an unmade bed.
Continuing a bit further, we dismounted at a small concession area, where I bought two hard-earned Presidentes (the local beer), one each for myself and my guide, as we took in the waterfall below. Descending from this point by foot, I couldn’t help but worry about how painful the hike back up would be—but that thought evaporated as soon as I reached the tranquil pool’s edge.
Some of the younger guides climbed the falls and dove in from 30 feet or higher, much to the delight of onlookers. Personally, just swimming around beneath the waterfall was enough to keep me happy until it was time to return to the starting point for the hearty meal prepared by Ramona, who, along with her husband Basilio, runs this excursion operation.
Big Finale
The D.R. is home to one of the first whale sanctuaries in the world, a 200-mile stretch of sea surrounding the Peninsula of Samaná, designated in 1966 to be a haven for the humpback whales that come to calf each winter.
I’d been whale-watching before, but never in such a small boat, and this scenario certainly added a level of excitement to what truly felt like an up-close-and-personal encounter. We were lucky that day: A mother and her calf appeared almost immediately, and we were able to watch them for a good half hour as they swam beneath the nearby water, breaching occasionally to our collective “oohs” and “aahs.”
Afterwards, I indulged in a treat from local bakery D’Vieja Pan: pan con coco, a fluffy, not-too-sweet bread that delivers a one-two punch of coconut and cinnamon. Since my return to the Isle of Manhattan, the taste of cinnamon has repeatedly sent me back to this delectable delicacy, allowing me to imagine, if only for a moment, that I’m actually back on an altogether different island.
Courtesy: Premier Traveler
Author: Ally Miola
PASSPORT & VISA PROCESSING