Chefs on a Plane

Traditionally, airline food has a bad rap. In-flight meals, especially in economy class, conjure images of mystery meats and soggy pastas; stale rolls and limp salads; not to mention a complete disregard for nutritional value. To be fair, flying does introduce special challenges for cuisine. No open flames are allowed in the galley, of course, so meals must be pre-cooked on the ground before being loaded onto the aircraft. Further complicating things is the fact that dry air and low pressure in the cabins numb the taste buds and dull the sense of smell (or so says a 2010 Lufthansa study). Then, too, catering budgets always seem to be the first service on the chopping block when costs are cut. Though these factors have led to a certain lack of culinary prowess across the board, a few savvy carriers have chosen to rise above these challenges with one key ingredient: professional chefs preparing meals right onboard—which means that passengers who appreciate fine dining no longer have to wait until arrival to enjoy a gourmet meal.

If you’ve ever dined in Turkey, then you might have an inkling of what to expect from the “Flying Chefs” on Turkish Airlines. Meal service in business and first class begins with a parade of mezze, or traditional Turkish appetizers. Stuffed vine leaves, seafood salad, savory puff pastries and kalamata olives are just a few of the elaborate offerings from the airline’s appetizer trolley. Passengers also have a choice of at least three entrees before another parade rolls down the aisle—a cart full of the real Turkish delights—dessert. The Flying Chefs (many of whom have worked in top Turkish restaurants) are trained to use high-tech convection ovens in order to finish meals according to individual preferences. Just as dazzling as the myriad offerings is the carefully choreographed chorus line of crew members presenting the banquet-style meals. Started as a test in 2010, the Flying Chef program has earned the airline such accolades as the 2013 Skytrax World Airline Award for Best Business Class Catering and the PT reader-selected Best of 2012 award for Best Airline Cuisine/Meals.

Training is what makes the catering program at Korea-based Asiana Airlines stand out. Asiana’s Onboard Crew Chefs—who personally serve meals course by course to passengers—are required to complete a nine-month program at the world-famous Le Cordon Bleu in France, Australia or Canada. So the chefs cooking in the galley on long-haul routes in first and business class have the same alma mater as culinary giants like Julia Child and Gastón Acurio. Asiana is the only airline that requires its onboard chefs to obtain a certificate at a specialized culinary school and, because of their worldly training, Onboard Crew Chefs can execute Western dishes, such as roasted chicken with gremolata, alongside Korean specialties like delicate crepes stuffed with kimchi bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef). The good food on Asiana isn’t exclusive to the upper classes, however. The airline walked away with the prize for Best Economy Class Catering at the 2013 World Airline Awards.

Etihad Airways ups the gourmet game in a few ways for its oft-hailed in-flight catering. To begin with, the airline has a unique partnership with Abu Dhabi Organic Farms, where Etihad keeps 200 hens and three beehives to produce eggs and honey for passenger consumption. Etihad also uses a cutting-edge cooking preparation technique for their “chilled protein boxes,” which contain a variety of fresh meat and fish. The food is prepared in advance, then vacuum-packed in airtight bags, which preserve the food until it is cooked sous-vide onboard. The preservative quality of the vacuum packing cuts down on waste, too, actually saving the airline money. Most impressive, however, are the consultations that take place between passengers and chefs, who meet one-on-one to discuss the diner’s preferences on things like kind of sauce, preferred spicing level or how rare to serve a rib eye. Don’t see something on the menu? The airline encourages special requests, adding that the chefs enjoy a challenge. So the salmon filet you’re enjoying in seat 1A is designed especially for you, and completely different from the salmon the passenger in seat 3B is consuming. Etihad’s chefs also have high training standards—many have worked in Michelin-starred restaurants around the globe, and the airline requires at least six years of kitchen experience, which is likely why the carrier was recognized by the 2012 World Travel Awards for First Class Onboard Catering.

While many may think that U.S. airlines are late to the dinner party, United Airlines has stepped up to the plate through its “Chef on Board” program. James “Jimmy” Canora, corporate chef at New York City’s legendary Delmonico’s and owner of NYC Culinary Events, has been a member of Continental/United’s Congress of Chefs for 12 years. Canora designs the menus for the airline’s Global First Class, but he also can be found in the air, serving meals en route to destinations like Paris, Rome and Geneva. In first class, passengers can look forward to Canora’s “nightly specials” when he is onboard. “In my nightly specials, I always use inspirational ingredients and new products that I learned [about] from traveling,” Canora explained. “If the specials get a great response, they later become menu items.” Quality control is the key to United’s culinary success, and chefs like Canora are also required to act as in-flight “mystery shoppers,” to taste and check food quality on different routes. “Our main focus is to give our first- and business-class clients more of a fine dining and restaurant experience,” noted Canora, “and with our Chef on Board program, we can also interact with passengers and receive feedback.”

Little by little, these airlines are chipping away at the sullied reputation of airplane food. And for some travelers, eating well is a key factor in deciding which carrier to fly. As innovations in airline cuisine continue to evolve, one day scoring a seat on some flights might become as difficult as getting a reservation at a buzz-generating, world-class restaurant. The big question for traveling gourmands now: Which airline will be the first to earn a Michelin star in the sky?

Courtesy: Premier Traveler